Homeward Bound from Iles de la Madeleine, Summer of 2014

Kite Surfers dodging boats

After the dinghy's outboard engine secured on the stern of Xcelsior II, we ended having to hold out for two more days. The usual, waiting for that weather window. Meanwhile, the kite surfers and motorcycles, cars and trucks racing up the sandy beach are entertaining us.  Best of all, one truck ended up with his engine getting salt water splashed and stalled.  Tides coming in .....a couple of hours later it is not looking good for the stalled truck.  Water now up to his doors.  They tried pulling him from the rear and front....not much luck. All I could think of is hope there were not any Sand Pipers nests destroyed during their foolishness.  Just in the nick of time, the truck gets towed out.

Cattle grazing on steep cliff of Entry Island

Entry Island

One week in the Maggies and we haul up anchor.  As we round Entry Island  at the high steep cliff is a herd of cattle.  I do not know what they could graze on as it looks like moss.  Kenny and Judy are waiting for us at Margaree River. Winds of course are dead on the nose and we missed high tide as we attempt the river.  The gannets playing chicken as they race the boat on the port side and fly under the bow,  then landing  on the starboard side near the stern, on the water. Unfortunately, as we approach the river month the tide was too low. You might say we no longer have to worry about the barnacles on the bottom of the keel .  "Sorry guys we will have to come visit by car".  So we ended up anchoring one more time out at Margaree Island where hundreds of seals reside. The bull seals were not impressed with us as they came close to the stern of the boat and beat their tails on the surface of the water. They always came near the dingy, perhaps they thought it was competition, attempting to steal their herd?  Maybe, trying to impress the female dingy, and entice her to join the herd? Unfortunately, it was too dark, we could not get a good picture...but these boys were huge and very aggressive, I would not want to tangle with them.

Seals at Margaree Island

Next morning,  Xcelsior II sails off her anchorage as we head for the Canso Strait Causeway.  Great sail as we race three to four Minke whales approximately 30 to 40 feet long just off Mabou, CB , only ninety-six feet of water.  That whole coast is beautiful.  A sight you don't see from the highway.  As we turn west up towards the Causeway, the winds dead on the nose and we pound into the swells.  The seas were 3 feet by 10; many times the boat littery comes to a full stop.  So much fuel was burnt (we calculated 50 litres for the distance of 22 miles). Because of the conditions, the engine ran out of fuel.  Thank god, for jerry cans on the upper deck and Ted's best investment of the siphon, as we heave to, and fuel at sea. Arriving  at Port Hawkesbury in time to for the duty manager to register us and go to Sobeys an NSCL before closing.  Once again, we have met up with Northern Dancer.

For two days we are "being held captive at Port Hawkesbury". Gusting winds 30+, the winds pushing us  onto  the marina and on our nose.  A young Quebec sailor came in, as he sailed solo from Panama, in a thirty-seven foot boat. Not sure if he was in a race or a personal challenge. There are a number of sponsorship logo's and websites decaled on the hull of the boat. The winds were in his favour for sailing to Sherbrook, QC.

Next morning, we depart at 5:30 a.m., not a ripple in the water until a few miles from Canso. To avoid a majority of the slop we tucked in through Canso and behind Andrews Island.  Northern Dance had to go around Andrews, due to her depth  and as they  try to get better winds and sea conditions. 

We had seen a number of albatross fighting the tuna (approximately 6-7 feet long) for bait fish were in the area (most likely mackerel). Northern Dancer radioed for our position and came into Port Howe with us.  Port Howe is one of our favorite spots, astounded by the beauty and protection it offers,  as we rafted up.  A gentleman and his daughter came by on their boat "River Rat" and offered us some mackerel , freshly caught and filleted.  An added touch to go with our pot luck dinner.  Cameras are never handy when a bald headed eagle fly above and lands on his perch.  Topaz leads Titan onto Northern Dancer (his first time stepping across a boat rafted up).  With caution, he walks aboard, peeking in windows and hatches.

Another beautiful Sunset and Anchorage

Mackerel offerings from River Rat

Next morning we sail two hours out, three hours in, one hour out and four in, to reach our destination Country Harbour.  Sailed, forty miles to reach thirty-five. Titan did not do well, once we tacked the noise frightened him, the rest was not pleasant, as he projected across the floor. Poor little guy, he was doing really good until now.  It takes so long to get into Country Harbour, from the entering the harbour to our anchorage, four hours had past. A grazing deer had greeted us.  

Muscle Farming

Once again, the slop the next day made sailing difficult.  In fact, a couple of times the bow was under water, resulting to the hatch taking on water.  A "severe thunderstorm warning" caused us to anchor  off  Little Liscomb Island.  A lovely spot and interesting cloud forms, as the thunder and lightening performs their events.  Next morning we motor into Liscomb Lodge for fuel and a well-deserved hot tub and swim. Deep Powder from Vermont (Non Such 36) had spent four years in Newfoundland and now heading for Chester, tied on the marina ahead of us.  They were anxious to hear what the sea state was, as they spent two days along side.  Liscomb is such a protected cove that you would not know that there was any disturbance of any sort.  Later that afternoon, Harmony VII ( Island Trader 36 Ketch), rafts up on our starboard.  We had a lovely visit with Mike and Gay. Ted had discussed how he see's Xcelsior II pulling out, so Harmony VII can tie up along the marina the following morning. Both boats remaining tied together, Ted will flash the engine and go forward, Mike would place his engine in reverse, a complete 180 degree turn and then untie.  This would prevent us from having to go too far forward into shallow waters and Mike tying up on his starboard side to point him in the right direction.  Pretty impressive, and no one around to take pictures.

Interesting Cloud Formations during Thunder Storm

Morning Sky after the storm

Deep Powder from Vermont

Inner Passage

Inner Passage

The slop continues and winds SW rather than N, so we decided to take the scenic route through the inner islands.  Anchoring, at Taylor Head, Mushaboom.  A lovely spot, the sandy beach reminds me of Lockport. Our next stop will be home.  Waking, to a very rare sight in the sky, at 5 a.m., Venus, Saturn, the moon and Orion,  sharing the same piece of sky at the same time.

Sun Rise in Mushaboom

Home sweet home!!  Theodore, Tug Boat motoring by us. The harbour is extremely active this evening, with three Harbour Hoppers in the water, along with Sylvia, Marr II and the regular ferry traffic.  Best sight of all was Wrights Cove Red Buoy, knowing marina E1, 8 was waiting for us.

Back home on E1, 8

Theodore in Halifax harbour

Overall the shake down was successful and without any major incidents, however, a list of 15 items to repair, moderate or replace....which will most likely double if not triple down the road.

Shake Down Cruise from Halifax to Iles de la Madeleine 2014

Tuesday  July 22, 2014 after a couple of years of engine repairs and various other additions, Xcelsior II departs Dartmouth Yacht Club for her first shakedown cruise. Unfortunately we weren't even to Major's Beach and Titan our four year old Maine Coon got sea sick. We attempted gravol in a number of forms but he'd put his nose up to it and had too suffer the consequences. It was then decided that we would do nine to eleven hour intervals and anchor along our way.  In some cases we found such nice holes that we stayed for two days to give him rest. As time went on he got better, while Topaz well she has a lot of sea miles and carried on like a trooper.

While departing Tor Bay, we had discovered a new abrasive sea creature to our waters.  Millions of jelly fish gathered on top of each other in the form of a bee hive.  The depth of the water was 56 feet; it looked like a large sand barge as we sailed over it.  Approximately, fifty five and a half feet in height, 63 feet long and 25-30 feet wide.   One of the fisherwomen in Canso had told us that her net got caught up in one of these and ripped it to shreds.

We fueled, showered and took on groceries while in St. Peters. Met a lovely gentleman from Marblehead, MASS.  David, was on his last journey with his boat  "Vamoose" before putting her up for sale.  We stayed for a couple of days as the winds would not be on our favour for Port Hawkesbury.

Skipper Ted

Topaz who has over 17,000 sea miles

Titan the newest crew member - 1,150 sea miles - he's not impressed with this life style just yet! 

While travelling the Lennox Passage we were swarmed by Cape Bretons Natural Defense Force... Deer Flies!!  

First time in Port Hawkesbury and surprised by the number of shipping depots.  Strait of Canso Yacht Club is a volunteer run club. Everyone takes four - twelve hour day shifts as club manager, throughout the sailing season.  Xcelsior II was placed on the main trunk for a couple of hours, while we headed out to find batteries for our remote ram mic.  Shortly after we headed over to the mooring ball. Apparently this ball is held down with a 500 lb danforth and 3" chain.  Leave it to our luck.... the chain got caught between the rudder and Skeg....the need of a diver.  Nice guy Lenny (Atlantic Sea Diver Ltd.) and his daughter assisted us on his boat "Service Leader".  We had caught him at his son's soccer practice. Because we were in no danger, I said not to disturb practice, we can wait until he's finished.    One hour into the dive, after trying to wench the bridle from the ball the only one thing left to do....pop the larger of the two balls. The next morning Ted attached a foam ball, that we had on board, to the bridle to keep her afloat. Hate to see another boat have a mishap.  Finally, around noon Northern Dancer catches up to us.

Sunset at Port Hawkesbury Yacht Club

Northern Dancer Crew

Here it is August 1st., as we depart Port Hawkesbury and Canso Causeway we are about to enter our fourth body of water.  Leaving behind the Atlantic, Strait of Canso, St. George's Bay, and now the entering Northumberland Straits.  Large tuna and mackerel are jumping as we make our way to our new anchorage at Port Hood.  Both Topaz our Look out and Titan the galley hand, have both left posts  (see pictures below). Anchored in seventeen feet of water at 72 degrees and a very popular location.  Activity everywhere, sandy beach, tubers and skiers being towed, ski-doers and a boat load of approximately 15 kids in swimming.  After a nice evening of being rafted up with Northern Dancer identifying  the stars above, we all retire for the night,  Xcelsior II holding the anchorage.  Two thirty a.m. Ted is up and putting out another 50 feet of chain as the anchor alarm sets off.

Canso Strait Causeway Locks

Topaz - Look out has nothing to report!!

Titan - Galley Hand Leaves his post!!!

Northern Dancer Rafts Up to Xcelsior  II

Next morning Northern Dancer heads for Souris, PEI and we to Cheticamp, CB. Well as "Murphy"  always seems to play a part in our lives, the winds speed and direction was predicted wrong again.  We won't make Cheticamp, therefore, Margaree Island is our destination.  The seals are huge and plentiful here. Not quite the protection we had hoped for, but will have to do.  The bull seals are barking at us for hours while the juveniles are popping their heads up to see what we are all about. 

Awoken by square sea's pounding the sides of the boat we prepare to conquer Cheticamp today. At the public wharf where recreational boats are welcomed, Paul and Joanne happen to time it right to grab our lines.  They are boat sitting a Island Packet from Toronto (which we tied up behind), apparently the owners winter in British Virgin Islands and have left the boat to go to Italy. As we organized the lines and boat to go ashore, it appears as though Cheticamp put on a parade for our arrival.  "Only fitting" I teased.  Acadian Festival weekend or Natal Day in Halifax, totally forgot the date.

Sunset in Cheticamp, CB

Herd of beef cattle on Cheticamp Island

Because it is a long weekend, and fuel is delivered through the Harbour Authorities at the fishing wharf, we went to check on availability etc.  Determining the location of the fuel pumps, it would be hard to maneuver Xcelsior II so decided to do the jerry jug at the local Irving station instead. Three trips of a total of six jerry jugs later.

We heard from Northern Dancer, they were heading for the Maggie's when Tropical Storm Bertha was threatening to arrive the Maggie's around Wednesday. They headed back to Georgetown, PEI while we decided to check out the storm at Timmies.  During our stay in Cheticamp we had a lovely visit with Doug and family.  Timed it good, as Doug had to head back to Labordor the next morning for work. Meanwhile, while he's heading to Labrador, Ted and I are enjoying Snow Crab with his family. Ummmm some good!!

Winds the next morning started out to be good, but shortly after die and the swells become confusing.  The only sea life we see is one little seal welcoming us, as we approach Ile d'Entree. We hang a left towards Ile du Havre Aubert.  Waters are very shallow, we will surely stay in the deep blue.  We find a lovely anchorage with five other boats, where we sat back to kick our feet and enjoy a glass of wine. This is one of Canada's best  kept secrets, what a unique beauty. Lots of sandy beaches, kite surfing, par-a-gliding, sailing and fishing boats.  Although neither of us speak Francophone, we managed to communicate quite well.

There's no groceries or fuel available in Havre Aubert. Ted and I take the autobus into Cap aux Meules.  We had four hours to kill before our bus returns to take us back to Havre Aubert.  This village is more industrial and commercial.  The homes throughout the region are newly constructive and very modern.  Some more colourful  than others.  Although, we didn't get as far by bus to visit the cheese factory in Havre-aux-Maisons, we were able to get cheese curds at the grocery store.  Across the street was the local butcher for meats. Back in Havre Aubert, the marina manager, was kind enough to take our jerry cans and drive to the nearest station (approx 5 km) and radioed us when he was back. Apparently because of the historic status of the area, fuel is not permitted. Even the fishermen have it delivered by trucks.

There is a boat from Belguim anchored ahead of us, we did manage to meet the couple. They spoke very good English, and are heading for Newfoundland and St. Pierre.  Hoping to find work. We never did find out what they did for a living.

Ile d'Entree

Entrance to Havre Aubert

Sunset at anchorage in Havre Aubert

Belgium boat - Otter III

Marina in Havre Aubert

Our last day anchored here and surrounded by young kite surfers.  Quite the sight and breathe taking as they maneuver between two boats....."watch out for the riggings". At any given time there are eleven kites in the air and just as many waiting on the beach.  As they jump and leap through their aerobatics, duck themselves under other kiters.  Its quite the art and six hours of entertainment.  Time to raise the dingy outboard engine and secure it, while we head out for our next stretch of journey.

Xcelsior II at anchorage in Harve Aubert

Xcelsior II and crew have sailed six bodies of water on this shake down (Atlantic, Strait of Canso, Bras D'or Lakes, St. George's Bay, Northumberland Straits and Gulf of St. Lawrence). Plus two canals (St Peters and Canso Strait Causeway). 

Stay tuned for our return trip home........til than!!

February 2012 Ted and had purchased Xcelsior II and sailed her home from Deltaville, Virginia in April.  We had a number of incidents with the engine, two years later we are ready to do our Shake Down cruise to the illes des la Madaleine's, Quebec.  The following pictures are the denaming and renaming celebrations where King Neptune was treated with the best of rum while our guests toasted with Maderia Port. Thank you to our many family and friends that joined us at Dartmouth Yacht Club blessings by Father Robert Arsenault.

Xcelsior II the newest chapter, By Pat n Ted and the Bruce Roberts 43 Mauritius

 We will be updating more frequently as the new adventures unfold.  :-))

Northward Bound from Lacaya via Gulf Stream to Nova Scotia

After waiting out bad weather for over one and a half weeks in Lacaya, Grand Bahama's, finally 31 May 07 we had a green light. The sea's were rolly... but do able...providing you weren't prone to sea-sickness. Fortunately neither Ted, Topaz or myself had any worries there. Within about 80 miles (30 hours later) we were surfing the Gulf Stream with a push of 4-5 knots.

Just off Cape Canaveral, Ted finally got a big catch on the fishing rod. A beautiful 42" Mahi Mahi female, this making our third all total. The first two were caught on hand reels with a fish attracting device (FAD). All those dollars wasted on expensive rod and reels....who knew! We had full intentions of bringing some fillets home for friends to enjoy. However, the one time the freezer froze contents was now. We ended up in Southport, North Carolina, due to auto helm failing after getting wet. The Mahi Mahi ended up thawing and a few new friends were made on the marina, after they feasted. Days later, Ted and I thought we should have canned the fish. Oh well...the memory failed us.

During our stay in Southport, there had been a couple of stormy days which made Cape Fear inlet rather rough on the day of departure. Therefore, we headed towards Masonboro on the ICW, anchored for the night and departed early in the morning. Accompanied shortly after by a barracuda (who played about for a couple of hours). This making fishing impossible. Shortly after a few bottle nosed dolphins swam our bow (they don't stay long).

Cruising along nicely for a couple of days just south of New York when Chris Parker our Caribbean Weatherman, said we need to tuck in somewhere as a nasty front was about to hit. So thirty hours later we grabbed a mooring ball at Block Island, RI. Quaint spot as it reminded me of Scotland with the rock fences around the properties. Not to mention everything was uphill.

The common dolphins often came to visit, you could see them approaching you miles away as they came by the hundreds. Unlike the bottled nosed dolphins, the common dolphins had more energy and enthusiasm, as they played for hours. Topaz was quite entertaining during their stay.

From Nantucket Sound to Shelburne we were entertained by the fishermen. Their radios must have a radius of 200 miles...all they did was fight like small children. So often I wanted to get on the radio and tell them "Time Out...Go to your corners!!".

As usual the winds are on our nose at 30-35 knots as we approach Nova Scotia waters. The seas are sloppy, we have two reefs in the main and a small handkerchief for a jib. Fighting these conditions for approximately thirty six hours...it felt as though we'd take a step forward and ten more back. Finally, 2200 hours (10 p.m.) the 18th June we arrived at Hotel Bravo bouy, approximately 20 miles out of Halifax Harbour. We radioed Halifax Traffic, to see about the commercial traffic situation for the next six hours. Our reliable engine had failed us once again....therefore we would be under sail with no wind. Story of our lives coming into Halifax. Finally, 0630 and we have arrived at Sandwich Point with a large container coming out of the harbour and us trying to get further west out of their way, only to get headed and have to yet tack one more time. The pilot on the container sends the pilot boat over to ask us to move a little faster. The pilot boat explains our situation of no wind...no engine. Pilot expresses his concern by replying "Well, they best get out their oars". It was suggested we might want to go into Herring Cove and tie up there for the day, Only problem there is no way out without an engine. We tacked across the harbour to Majors Beach and laid the anchor at 0730.
Exhausted at this stage of the game. Approximately 1330 (1:30 p.m.) a friend and DYC member came out and towed us the remainder home to DYC. A fitting way to come back home.

I will post pictures just as soon as I am able to download them....keep tuned. There are some awesome photo's but we are without a computer presently. The salt environment finally killed the computer.

The Sharp Teeth of a Barracuda

Just ask Ted!

The Berrys to Lucaya (Little Florida)

The solitude of the under populated islands of the Berrys... is this why that area was the best over all for snorkeling? The mass variety of fish life, in shallow waters of six to twelve feet. Ted caught an interesting fish called the Saucyeye Porgy, within seconds after baiting his fishing line with chicken skin

We ventured on Stirrup Island tracking through the bushes and paths; the ground was so dry that the smallest Iguana sounded like it was twenty feet long only to be inches. The Iguana’s here are grey and black in colour, while Allen’s Cay in Exuma’s was greenish/brown.

We discovered the Norwegian Cruise Line’s and Royal Caribbean Cruise Line exotic islands, Stirrup and Coca Cay. Offering diving, sea-doing to the thrill of Parasailing. For the less adventurous, just a relaxing beach with shark nets and tiki bar. We met Morton, the maintenance man, one of three who live on the island for ten weeks at a time, year round.

The next day, the winds were coming up, so we moved around the other side of the islands to Great Harbour Cay. Such a quaint community, of 800 people. Our outboard was in need of carborator repairs, so we we had it repaired by Bennet. Early the next morning Ted lowered his fishing rod and met up with the teeth of a four- foot Barracuda. He bite him while trying to release him....such attitude.

Fifthy-six mile crossing of the Provincial Channel to Lucaya, Grand Bahama Island. We departed Great Harbour Cay at 6 p.m. out of the channel and anchored for an 11 p.m. departure. The forteen hour crossing would place us into Lucaya mid afternoon. We stood two hour watches. It was an exciting channel, with heavy cruise line traffic, as well as, commercial and sport fishermen. Once day light came, the Tuna were jumping by the thousands, in pursuit of the flying fish. We had three fishing lines out on our boat and two on another boat travelling with us. To our disappointment...no takers.

For the first two days in Lucaya, while waiting for our weather window to head north up the Gulf Stream, we treated ourselves to a dockage (first real shower and fresh water swim since January). The resort here has the comforts of everything one needs, even Topaz enjoyed the land life once again. The million dollar(s) boats that are tied up here…it’s breath taking that people have that kind of investment. The home across from our dock, was a house built around a forty to fifthy foot power boat. We could have one too…if only the phamplet published the price….this was our hint that it’s out of our price range. This area is loaded with resorts it reminds me of Florida from West Palm Beach to Mimi.

Nassau

There's definitely money to be had here... in the big city of the Bahama's.....between cruise boats and Paradise Island. There's massive motor boats as large as 250 feet. It looked like a destroyer.

What's in the Pail?

Curiosity kills the cat....and Topaz was surprised to find what she did. Tails flopping didn't impress her too much when she jumped back and almost fell into the companion way.